15 years ago a friend asked me for tips on what to do in Tokyo. I’ve updated the post a few times with new information but never shared anything about where to stay and what to eat so here’s text lifted from a long message to another friend.
Where to Stay
Old Tokyo
I like Yanaka in eastern Tokyo. This area was not bombed during the war so many of the old buildings and temples remain. I used to live there and enjoyed having good access to downtown but still retreat to a neighborhood when you want to decompress. For visitors, it’s a more authentic Japanese experience than the hustle, bustle and glitz of Ginza or Shibuya.
I recently went back to visit and now it’s been rediscovered as a nostalgic neighborhood and has transformed a bit like Williamsburg in New York.
There’s a family-run inn in the neighborhood that’s still there. I’ve never stayed there but imagine it’s a bit like a backpacking experience. You’ll definitely meet other travelers that might be fun to hang out if you’re traveling solo.
When I worked at SmartNews and traveled to Tokyo every couple of months, I would stay at the Shibuya Dormy Inn. The rooms are tiny but they have a large shared bath & sauna and the breakfast buffet is a good deal. Location-wise you’ll be a 15-minute walk from Shibuya station so if you go out late, it’s a cheap cab ride home. Stay here if you want to be in the thick of it. Pro-tip, ask for a room away from the train tracks which run right next to the hotel.
Tokyo is like NYC in that there is anything you want and the baseline quality isn’t bad. If you know what you want and plan ahead, you will have access to some truly unique dining experiences. Off the top of my head, here are some places to try.
Minatoya – cheap sushi-don under the tracks. The whole neighborhood was where the black market was after the war and still is a neighborhood full of niche shops selling their wares at a discount. After visiting the rabbit warren of shops, be sure to stop by here for your requisite $8 lunch.
Bayside Sakura Olion-sushi – if you’re looking for a different take on sushi, this place pairs olive oils and salts with their fish to serve a somewhat hybrid meal. The chef trained in Southern Europe (Spain I think) so came to appreciate the Mediterranean way of eating and fused that with traditional Japanese sushi. High end eating but well worth it.
Tonki – Fried pork cutlet is not for everyone but if you want to try the best Tonkatsu in the world, this is the spot. The place is immaculate and they run people through there like it’s a factory. You’ll get to sit at the counter and watch the open kitchen work in quiet efficiency. The rice is fluffy, the sliced cabbage is sweet and the roast pork done to perfection. Truly a temple to the pork cutlet.
Enoki – Tiny Japanese bar that seats 6 in the shadow of the skyscrapers of Shibuya. I have been going here since the 80s (Enoki was in my post 15 years ago) so Chizuru, the proprietor has know me since I was in my twenties. It’s super hard to get in so if you want to go, call a day or two ahead.
Tokyo is a city that gives more than it takes. If you go in with an unstructured schedule with only one or two things to do each day and leave yourself plenty of time to poke around surrounding neighborhoods and open yourself to sidebar explorations, you will be amazed at what you’ll find.
Be observant, marvel at the intricate designs on the manhole covers, see a line of folks at a sweet treat shop? Queue up and try it out. Ask questions, have conversations, connect with humanity and celebrate what brings us together.
I was just back there last month to visit my parents to celebrate my dad’s 90th. While I spent most of my time with my parents, I did manage a couple of focused days out and caught a whiff of that Tokyo magic. Here’s what I did.
It’s been said that Tokyo is Disneyland for adults. If you approach the city with a beginner’s mind the city will reward you many times over.
I’m back in Tokyo visiting with my parents (who have been living here since 1978!) and while I spent most of my time visiting with them, I did go out a few days just to poke around. Here’s what happened on one of those days.
On Tyler’s recommendation, I went to the Tokyo City Flea Market, held on Saturday from 9 – 2 pm down by the Kawasaki horse racing track. Like most large flea markets it was mostly vintage clothing and collectables but there was some cool finds such this game my sister and I used to play.
I also found a guy selling cheap, Japanese baseball jerseys and managed to buy an assortment of Softbank Hawks jerseys for the family. We can wear them at a Mets game in honor of Kodai Senga, their new Japanese pitcher who used to play for the Hawks
500 JPY ($3.50) each, not a bad haul!
I then went to Akihabara to check out the latest gadgets. I spent some time in the main Bic Camera branch playing Japanese Go against a robot. I lost all five times.
I then walked up to Okachimachi to wander around the warren of shops tucked in under the tracks. This area was a huge black market region after the war and it retains the feeling of a place where you can strike a bargin. I visited Minatoya, a great place for a donburi bowl topped with sushi.
1,200 JPY ($8.50) for the lot (yes, including the beer!)
From there I punched through Ueno park to my old neighborhood in Yanaka to visit my old apartment.
Doesn’t look like much but Nezu/Nippori is one of my favorite neighborhoods in Tokyo
Around the corner is SCAI the Bathhouse. True story, when I just moved to the neighborhood, I went there when it was still a public bathhouse. As I entered, everyone was singing songs and greeting each others as if in a large family reunion. The atmosphere was unusually jovial for a public bath which is usually a reflective place where one goes to scrub down and soak up to your chin while gazing at Mount Fuji depicted on the tile wall. When I asked the proprietor if it’s usually this festive, she replied that that day was the last day in their 165-year existence as they were converting the structure to an art gallery!
As I was walking the old neighborhood it started to rain so I ducked into another neighborhood favorite, the Asakura Museum. The home is unique in style with a wonderful blend of early 20th century Eastern and Western styles. I would often go just to gaze out on the beautiful garden and it’s amazing carp. The rain sprinkling drops on the water made it even more magical.
Later the rain cleared up and the ladies who run the museum let us know excitedly that we should make our way to the top floor to view the rainbow.
If you look carefully, you’ll see the Akasaka Sky Tree near the right base of the rainbow.
Next, I went to meet my sister at the Yanaka Ginza shopping street where we had a nice cup of coffee and then headed to meet my friend Yuji and his lovely wife Yumi at a local beer hall. Yuji and I met at a Grateful Dead concert in Oakland and when I moved to Japan he introduced me to the surfing culture as well as the downtown community spirit of shitamachi in the working class neighborhoods of Eastern Tokyo. After sampling their beer and light snacks, we headed to Asakusa for some monja, a local dish cooked over a teppan stove with copious amounts of beer and chu-hai.
Yuji makes the monja
By then it was getting late so we walked through the Sensoji temple grounds which were mostly empty but lit up majestically.
Sensoji at night
By the time my sister and I got back to Hiyoshi station where my parents live, we had just enough time to grab “one more drink” so we looked for bar on Google Maps and were drawn to a place called Valhalla.
We stepped in timidly as it was dark and there was no one else in the place. Pink Floyd was playing gently on the hi-fi and the proprietor warmly welcomed us and motioned us to sit down. He brought an oil candle and the menu and we flipped around looking for the beer or chu-hai selections.
When he brought over light snacks and laid out a collection of cigars we asked what kind of bar we were in. It was clear from the many pages of single malt whiskeys listed, this was a place for serious drinking. The master said the cigars were for people who enjoy a smoke with their whiskey. As he was explaining all this, he frowned as my sister flipped to the cocktails page. When I asked for something “on the rocks” he looked at me as if I had asked for a mug of mulled wine. We were gently guided to the topic at hand. Were locked in, whiskey it will be.
The master instructsMy sister not sure what she’s in for
For the next hour, my sister and I were given a master class on single malts. Their history, the varieties, some of the distillers, and, most importantly, how to appreciate and drink properly. He wielded the sipping glasses as deftly as a magician. Vigorously swirling the liquor in the glass, the master instructed us to jam our nose in and take a deep inhale before taking a single drop. Notes of peanuts I think. Then he had us take a very small sip and then to smell again and note how the “nose” had changed. He later dipped a fork in some water and let a single drop fall into the whiskey and go through the whole process again. Completely different once again.
We were both amazed how a single drop of water could alter the entire experience. I could understand how he would be offended by anyone who would plunk an entire ice cube into his precious elixir!
After a second round of a different whiskey (we thought he’d cry if we left after only one) it was time to call it a night. Mie and I both laughed how, only in Tokyo, you could go from wolfing down monja and beers in shitamachi to finishing the night with an instructive tour of finer points of Scottish single malts. All completely unplanned and completely serendipitous.
When in Japan, things work out best if you surrender to the flow.
Part Two of a series from a session with Perplexity AI where I asked for recommendations for on day hikes near Tokyo. Yesterday was Mt. Takao in Western Tokyo. Today’s post is a “vibe blog” (lightly edited) response to the prompt, “Can you show me some nice hikes in the Kamakura area?”
Nestled just an hour from the bustling metropolis of Tokyo, Kamakura presents a captivating blend of natural beauty, historical significance, and spiritual heritage accessible through its network of scenic hiking trails. Kamakura, surrounded by the ocean to the south and wooded hills in all other directions, creates a unique landscape that has drawn visitors since the Edo period. These well-maintained hiking paths not only connect various temples and shrines but also offer hikers an intimate experience with Japan’s rich cultural history and natural splendor away from the typical tourist routes. This post explores the most notable hiking trails in Kamakura, their distinctive features, and practical information for planning an enriching hiking adventure in this historically significant coastal town.
The Historical Significance of Kamakura’s Landscape
Kamakura’s topography played a crucial role in its selection as the site of Japan’s first shogunate. The city is built within finger valleys radiating from a small bay, with low mountains surrounding it on three sides, creating a natural fortress that protected the samurai government. These mountains were not merely defensive structures but also integral to the region’s spiritual landscape, dotted with temples, shrines, and yagura (cave tombs). The kiridoshi—ancient passageways cut through the hills—served as vital trade routes during Kamakura’s heyday and now form the foundation for many of the hiking trails that traverse the area. Tokugawa Ieyasu, who established the Edo shogunate, made deliberate efforts to preserve the shrines and temples in Kamakura, contributing to the rich cultural tapestry that hikers can experience today.
The trails in Kamakura are relatively accessible, typically taking between 30 to 90 minutes to complete, making them perfect for day-trippers from Tokyo seeking a break from urban life. These trails are not paved and can be narrow and steep at times, so good walking shoes and dry weather are recommended for the best experience. The trails offer a unique way to travel between Kamakura’s cultural sights, allowing visitors to enjoy a harmonious blend of nature and history.
The Daibutsu Hiking Trail: From Ancient Temples to the Great Buddha
The Daibutsu Hiking Trail (大仏路) is the most popular hiking route in Kamakura. Stretching from Kita-Kamakura Station to the iconic Great Buddha statue (Daibutsu) at Kotoku-in Temple. This western trail spans approximately 3.4 kilometers and takes about an hour to complete, offering hikers a journey through some of Kamakura’s most significant cultural landmarks.
To get to the trail head, take the JR Yokosuka Line to Kita-Kamakura station (one stop before Kamakura Station) Tokyo Station to Kita-Kamakura is ¥830). The trail begins near Jochi-ji Temple, winding through wooded hills fragrant with fresh air—a welcome contrast to Tokyo’s urban environment.
As hikers progress along the path, they encounter Kuzuharaoka Shrine, known as a power spot for those seeking luck in love and marriage, evidenced by the heart-shaped ema (wooden wishing plaques) that adorn the shrine grounds. The journey continues through Genjiyama Park, where friendly cats often greet visitors. Another highlight along the route is Zeniarai Benten Shrine, famous for its sacred spring where visitors wash money in the hope that it will multiply.
The Great Buddha (Daibutsu) on the grounds of Kotokuin Temple in Kamakura, Japan. (via GaijinPot)
The trail’s defining feature is its culmination near the Great Buddha of Kamakura, the second largest bronze Buddha in Japan after the one in Nara’s Tōdai-ji Temple. At 11 meters, this serene Buddha statue dates back to the mid-13th century and remains one of Kamakura’s most visited attractions. The final section of the trail passes through residential areas, offering glimpses into the beautiful homes that characterize this affluent region before reaching the Great Buddha.
The Experience of Hiking the Daibutsu Trail
While the Daibutsu Trail might initially appear tame, it surprises hikers with its varied terrain featuring paths knotty with roots and boulders that require some scrambling. The path is well-marked, with maps positioned at strategic points guiding travelers in the right direction. For those seeking to extend their journey, the trail can be continued from the Great Buddha all the way to the seashore, where Hasedera Temple, famous for its hydrangeas in early summer, awaits as a worthwhile stop.
The Tenen Hiking Trail: A Challenging Ridge Walk
The Tenen Hiking Course (天園路) represents one of Kamakura’s more challenging and popular hiking options. This northern trail connects Kenchoji Temple in Kita-Kamakura with Zuisenji Temple in the eastern part of the city, spanning over 4 kilometers along a ridge that offers spectacular views of the surrounding landscape. The trail is accessible from various points, including the Imaizumidai Trailhead, which serves as a convenient starting point for many hikers.
Although most guidebooks show this exciting hiking course starting from Kencho-ji Temple in Kita-Kamakura, I prefer to begin the tour starting from Zuisen-ji Temple (it is usually the end). There are three good reasons for this. 1) The first ten minutes is quite easy and you can warm up your legs during that time. 2) After thirty minutes, you can reach a wide-open space that is perfect for a picnic lunch or tea. 3) The last ten minutes of the hike you will be going down a long steep stairs, but it’s easier than going up as many people have to do!
What sets the Tenen Trail apart is its elevation and the panoramic vistas it offers of Kamakura city below. From various vantage points along the route, hikers can appreciate the layout of Kamakura, understanding how the city nestles within its valley setting surrounded by protective hills. This perspective provides insight into why this location was chosen for the shogunate, as the natural defensive position becomes evident from above.
The trail passes through lush forests and near historical sites, including caves and stone monuments that tell the story of Kamakura’s past. The challenging nature of this trail, with its steeper sections and longer distance, makes it particularly appealing to those seeking a more rigorous hiking experience while still immersing themselves in cultural exploration.
Practical Information for Kamakura Hikers
Accessing Kamakura from Tokyo is straightforward, with direct trains running from major stations including Shinjuku, Shibuya, and Tokyo Station. The journey takes approximately one hour and costs under ¥1,000 one way.
When planning a hiking day in Kamakura, it’s advisable to consider the weather conditions. The trails are not recommended during or after rainfall due to slippery surfaces. Proper footwear is essential, as is carrying sufficient water, especially during warmer months. Most trails are accessible year-round, though spring (for cherry blossoms) and autumn (for fall foliage) offer particularly scenic experiences.
For those concerned about navigation, resources like Toshi’s Kamakura Hiking Map provide detailed information including the locations of vending machines, public restrooms, bus stops, and stations. Additionally, the trails are generally well-marked with signs in both Japanese and English at key junctions.
Kamakura’s hiking trails offer a perfect blend of natural beauty, historical significance, and cultural richness, all within a convenient day trip from Tokyo. Whether opting for the popular Daibutsu Trail with its iconic Buddha statue, the challenging Tenen Trail with its ridge-top views, or one of the less-traveled paths, hikers in Kamakura can expect an enriching experience that connects them to Japan’s past while providing refreshing natural scenery.
A neighbor asked for some recommendations on where to go for a day hike somewhere near Tokyo. In another post of “cool things I asked an AI,” I worked with Perplexity to come up with some day hikes to recommend for someone visiting Tokyo looking for something different.
Today’s “vibe blog” is a result of asking Perplexity, “Can you help me plan a day of hiking Mt. Takao in Western Tokyo? I’m looking for a nice hike to the summit and a nice place to eat.”
Mt. Takao
Mt. Takao, a 599-meter mountain located in Hachioji City in western Tokyo, stands as one of the world’s most visited mountains with approximately 3 million visitors annually. The mountain offers the perfect combination of accessibility, beautiful nature, and excellent dining options, making it ideal for a rewarding day trip from central Tokyo. The following guide will help you plan a comprehensive Mt. Takao hiking experience, from reaching the summit to enjoying local culinary delights.
Getting to Mt. Takao
Reaching Mt. Takao from central Tokyo is straightforward. From Shinjuku Station, take the Keio Line directly to Takaosanguchi Station, a journey that takes just under an hour and costs approximately ¥430 each way. This convenience is one of the key reasons for Mt. Takao’s popularity, as it allows visitors to enjoy mountain hiking without venturing far from the city.
Upon arriving at Takaosanguchi Station, turn right and follow the path for about 500 meters to reach the cable car and chairlift stations, which mark the beginning of the hiking trails. The Omotesando trail, lined with soba restaurants and souvenir shops, leads from the station area toward the mountain trails.
Choosing Your Hiking Trail
Mt. Takao offers eight distinct hiking trails of varying difficulty levels, allowing hikers of all abilities to enjoy the mountain experience. Your choice of trail will significantly impact your overall experience, so it’s worth considering the options carefully based on your fitness level and hiking preferences.
The 8 main hiking trails of Mt. Takao (via Good Luck Trip)
Omotesando Trail: The Classic Route for First-Time Visitors
For first-time visitors or those seeking a balance of accessibility and sightseeing, Trail 1 (Omotesando Trail) stands as the most recommended option. As the main route to Takao-san Yakuo-in Temple, this trail is almost entirely paved, making it suitable even for those wearing casual shoes or sneakers.
The journey to the summit via Trail 1 typically takes about 1 hour and 40 minutes. The trail features numerous attractions along the way, including the historic Yakuo-in Temple (with a rich history of around 1,200 years), a monkey park, and a wild plant garden. After crossing the Joshinmon gate at Yakuo-in shrine, the trail divides into two sections: Otokozaka, featuring 108 steps, and Onnazaka, a gentler sloping path. The paths eventually reconnect, making it possible for groups to split up safely based on their energy levels.
A notable feature of Trail 1 is Gogenchaya teahouse, conveniently located where the Otokozaka and Onnazaka paths merge, offering a perfect rest stop with delicious soft-serve ice cream. The mountain’s temperature is typically cooler than central Tokyo, so carrying a light jacket is advisable even during summer months.
For Experienced Hikers: The Inariyama Trail
If you’re seeking a more challenging experience, the Inariyama Trail offers a more demanding route with numerous steep inclines. Historically used by timber industry workers, this trail is lined with Japanese cypress and cedar trees and takes approximately 90 minutes to reach the summit The Inariyama Trail follows the southern mountain ridge, providing ample sunshine on clear days and panoramic views of Hachioji from the Azuamaya lookout point. On particularly clear days, you might even spot Shinjuku’s skyscrapers in the distance. The trail’s most challenging section comes just before the summit with a staircase of approximately 200 steps. As this trail has no vending machines or eateries along the way, hikers should bring sufficient water and portable food. Additionally, proper trekking or mountain climbing shoes are recommended due to potentially poor footing or steep steps.
Dining Options Around Mt. Takao
Before Your Hike: Traditional Tororo Soba
Before beginning your ascent, consider visiting Takaosan Takahashiya, a historic soba restaurant founded in the late Edo period (1603-1868). The restaurant’s most famous dish is tororo soba, a refreshing combination of soba noodles and grated Japanese yam (tororo). The restaurant features a remarkable 150-year-old persimmon tree growing through its roof, creating a peaceful and traditional atmosphere. Other popular dishes include tempura seiro (soba with tempura) and mugi-tororo meshi (rice with grated yam).
Tororo soba has historical significance in the area, as it was traditionally served to pilgrims climbing the mountain to visit Yakuo-in Temple. The grated yam was believed to have fortifying and nutritive effects, making it perfect fuel for mountain climbing.
During Your Hike: Trail Snacks and Refreshments
Along Trail 1, you’ll find numerous small shops and stalls offering a variety of snacks and refreshments. Several shops sell their own dango (rice dumplings) along what’s affectionately known as “dango street”. A particularly popular treat is “Tengu yaki,” a taiyaki-style snack shaped like the face of a Tengu (a mythological creature associated with mountains). Other popular refreshments include soft ice cream, shaved ice, and manju (Japanese sweet bean cakes), which provide welcome energy for tired climbers. In colder seasons, hot foods such as nameko soup and oden are also available.
Special Seasonal Option: Mt. Takao Beer Mount
If you’re visiting between mid-June and mid-October, consider stopping at Mt. Takao Beer Mount, Tokyo’s highest beer garden located at an elevation of nearly 500 meters. This seasonal establishment offers an all-you-can-eat, free-flow drink concept featuring Japan’s four major beers—Asahi, Kirin, Suntory, and Sapporo—along with numerous other beverages.
The venue provides two seating options: open-air tables on an observation deck or a sheltered hall with panoramic views of Mt. Takao’s verdant slopes. As night falls, the scenery transforms from lush greenery to the glittering nightscape of the Tokyo Metropolitan Area.
One word of warning, if you’re hoping to take the cable car down after all-you-can-drink beers, I think the last one leaves around 6pm.
For a truly special post-hike meal, Ukai Toriyama offers an exceptional dining experience at the foot of Mt. Takao. This traditional Japanese restaurant specializes in charcoal-grilled dishes and is housed in gassho-zukuri style buildings surrounded by meticulously maintained Japanese gardens, ponds filled with koi, and the soothing sounds of trickling water. The restaurant offers both larger dining areas and cozy private rooms set amidst the natural surroundings. With its combination of exquisite food, impeccable service, and breathtaking ambiance, Ukai Toriyama provides a perfect way to conclude your Mt. Takao adventure.
Summit Highlights and Views
Upon reaching Mt. Takao’s 599-meter summit, you’ll be rewarded with spectacular panoramic views. On clear days, you can see Tokyo Tower, Tokyo Skytree, and other central landmarks. The summit also offers stunning views of Mt. Fuji in the distance and the surrounding Okutama mountains.
Practical Tips for Your Mt. Takao Hike
To ensure an enjoyable hiking experience, consider these practical recommendations:
Time Management: Allow approximately 1 hour 40 minutes for ascending and 1 hour 20 minutes for descending via Trail 1. If using the cable car or lift, these times reduce to about 50 minutes ascending and 40 minutes descending.
Appropriate Clothing: While Mt. Takao is accessible in casual shoes for Trail 1, comfortable walking shoes are recommended as some sections can be rocky. The mountain’s temperature is typically cooler than central Tokyo, so bringing a light jacket is advisable even in summer. For more challenging trails like the Inariyama Course, proper trekking or mountain climbing shoes are essential.
Cable Car and Lift Option: For those who prefer a less strenuous experience, the cable car or lift can transport you most of the way up the mountain, leaving a shorter hike to the summit.
Seasonal Considerations: Each season offers unique attractions on Mt. Takao. Spring brings beautiful cherry blossoms, including the famous “One Thousand Cherry Trees of Takao.” Summer features the Beer Mount and natural fireflies (mid-June to early July). Autumn showcases magnificent foliage, while winter has special events like the Winter Soba Campaign.
Mt. Takao offers a perfect blend of accessibility, natural beauty, historical significance, and culinary delights, making it an ideal destination for a day trip from Tokyo. Whether you’re a beginner seeking an easy hike with plenty of attractions or an experienced hiker looking for a more challenging trail, Mt. Takao provides options to suit every preference. By starting with a traditional tororo soba meal, selecting a trail that matches your hiking ability, enjoying the various attractions and views along the way, and concluding with a memorable dining experience, you can create a perfectly balanced day of physical activity, cultural exploration, and gastronomic pleasure. The mountain’s proximity to central Tokyo and well-developed facilities ensure that even first-time visitors can enjoy a stress-free and rewarding experience in one of Japan’s most beloved natural settings.
John Battelle has a wonderful reminisce about what’s lost as information moves from analog to digital. He specifically writes about the college course catalog and what’s lost as these guides have moved online in Digital is Killing Serendipity. In the comments, I shared an experience I had with a printed catalog at the Edinburgh Festival Fringe and found there was more I wanted to share about that experience so here we are.
In the ’90s, I toured Europe by bicycle and one evening rolled into Edinburgh, Scotland during a three week festival called Festival Fringe. I did not know it at the time (I had to ask why all the hostels were booked solid) but this is the largest performing arts festival in the world. For three weeks there are literally hundreds of performances of stand up comedy, theater, dance, musicals, opera, children’s plays, spoken word, circus acts, street performers and everything else.
What inspired me to share this story is that my entry into the Fringe performances was via their printed catalog which was found in stacks around town. The guide was the size of a small phone book and had hundreds of entries with details of the where/what but also a few lines written (usually by the performer or producer) to entice people to come. As someone who has spent many long days solo, on the road, I was gobsmacked at the richness of what was on offer and overwhelmed with choice.
Festival Fringe programme entry, 1994
I was in town for three days and I realized I had spend most of the morning of the first day just reading the guide. In some effort to give my days a rhythm and theme, I went to the index (which was also a wonder in its variety) and chose “Vincent Van Gogh.” Over the course of three days, I was going to see several plays about Vincent Van Gogh.
Being a lone traveler it was easier to meet people and during those three days I had the chance to fall in with a group of Australian performers that had an excess of energy and talent. They were in town for a performance but they wanted to do something else on the side. The idea was they wanted to put on a cabaret to curate and showcase all the talent that was in town. One of them had a friend that had a space with a stage that was empty during the day so all we needed to do was line up some talent and we could sell tickets at the door.
Each of us pulled in people we had met during our stay. One guy had his haircut by a barber that told hilarious jokes so he was invited, I invited a busker who was popular around town, others performed short bits from their plays or performances as teasers for their scheduled acts.
I forgot what we called this extemporaneous cabaret show and couldn’t even tell you where the venue was but I do remember having the best time because the whole thing was totally chaotic in a wonderfully theatrical way. The audience was part of it, we all wanted to make it work. The show must go on! I remember a bunch of burly rugby guys were in the front row and getting antsy because the barber got stage fright and the punchlines to his jokes were falling flat. One of our group ran on stage and explained that he was actually really funny and, perhaps, if anyone would like to come up on stage to get their hair trimmed for free, it might calm the barber’s nerves so he could deliver his jokes. It worked brilliantly, the rugby team calmed down and someone got a free haircut.
On another night, I was in a pub and the band didn’t show up or maybe the electricity went out. Anyway there was no music or entertainment. Somebody jumped into the fray and started reciting a sports commentary of an entire soccer match of as if it were live. I don’t know if he was reciting a famous match from memory or just making it up as he went but as he described the skillful blocks of the back line, pinpoint passes and near misses hitting the crossbar in such wonderful detail that the entire audience in the pub was right there with him, “oohing” an “ahhing” at each turn it up as we could all see in our collective mind exactly what he was describing. Somebody later borrowed a couple of spoons and made music for awhile and, of course, there was singing. It was a night to remember, one reminding me that humanity is always able to entertain itself.
There were so many things I experienced during those three days in Edinburgh and the printed catalog was my trusty guide the whole time. There were things happening all around me and I loved the fact that I could thumb through the listings and immediately find something interesting. There’s something about the printed magazine form factor, rolled up in your back pocket but immediately available with calendars, listings, reviews of places to eat, maps, and other pages designed to quickly tell you what you need to know. The heft of the pages made you appreciate the expanse of the festival. I’m sure there’s an app that puts this all into a screen on your phone with drop down menus but it’s just not the same.
Update: Looks like they are still printing the “programme” and you can even request one via mail. The festival also uploads all 350+ pages of each year’s guide into a PDF viewer so you can see what last year’s guide looks like and they even have an archive of all guides back to the festival I stumbled on in 1994. It’s nice to see they’ve recognized that print information design is sometimes better than online.
New Yorkers face all sorts of hassles that come with living in the big city. Whether it’s the daily breakdown of the subway or a parade blocking your crosstown taxi, these is always some minor inconvenience that comes with living in a vibrant city. The day-in-and-day-out of millions of people rubbing shoulders, fulfilling their dreams is bound to result in some rough edges from time to time. We all know it happens, it’s a fact of life, we just roll with it and keep on, keeping on.
But an injustice that New Yorkers will not tolerate is when a corporate or political bureaucracy picks on the individual. New Yorkers are quick to smell bullshit and will unify and rise up if they sense injustice thrown down from above. An attack on one is an attack on all.
This played itself out during the recent holiday travel disaster that played out in airports across the country with Southwest Airlines cancelling over 2,500 flights in a single day. When flights get cancelled, airlines need volunteers to give up their seats on overbooked flights. Usually the airlines can get people to give up their spot but in NYC, the people collectively came together to resist.
99% of the time the chaos breaks people at the airport. 1% of the time the chaos creates an impromptu game show.
At JFK. Guy behind the counter asks for a volunteer to give up a seat for $500. Nothing. “$550.” The crowd suddenly coalesces to shout “HIGHER!” like it was a game show. “$750” “HIGHER! “800!” “NOT IN NEW YORK! GO HIGHER!” They applauded the elderly woman who took it at $1100.
I love New York City because it’s a place where a diverse group of people of different ages, beliefs, backgrounds, and experiences can come together as one if it means fucking with somebody else making them wait in line.
On October 11th Japan finally lifted the burdensome Covid restrictions which prevented all but the most determined from visiting Japan. With the USD/JPY rate approaching levels that we haven’t seen since the 1990s now is a great time to visit Japan.
A friend is headed off to Oahu in the Hawaiian Islands for a week and asked for a couple must-do activities while he’s there. I’ve visited the island several times and here’s my list:
Rent a car for your stay. You’ll want to have a car to get around unless you’re staying at a place where you plan to spend lots of time by the pool or local beach. There’s lots to see around the island and the only practical way to get around is by car. Alternative to picking up your rental at the airport is to Uber or Lyft from the airport and arrange to borrow a car for a few days using the Turo app.
Activities
View from Diamond Head
Diamond Head Hike – If you’re staying in downtown Honolulu and can walk up to the the park, try to time it so you get to the entrance by 6am when the park opens so you can hike up in early morning shade, watch the sunrise from the peak, and head down as the inevitable crowds gather. Bring your cellphone with you so you can use the phone flashlight when you go through the tunnel at the top and then head down the backside stairs to avoid the crowds coming up. Bring water as always when hiking in Hawaii. There’s usually a food truck at the parking lot at the bottom where you can get an Acai Bowl for breakfast after your hike.
Kayak on Kane’ohe Bay and enjoy a picnic on the sandbar at low tide. Check out the tide chart or ask which day during your stay is the best to do the kayaking so you hit the lowest tide and reserve with the local kayak rental Kama’aina Kids as soon as you can because spots fill up.
View from Lanikai Pillbox
Lanikai Pillbox Hike followed by a day at the beach. Pack a picnic and drive out in the morning and hike up to the pillboxes that look out over Kailua. Eat lunch and take in the view and enjoy the windward breezes. From that vantage point, scout out where the waves are and head back down to the car and grab your boogie boards and spend the afternoon on the beach. My favorite is Lanikai Beach. A little further away but also nice is Sherwood Beach, aka Waimanalo Bay
Mānoa Falls
Snorkeling in Hanauma Bay Nature Preserve – Rent snorkels and fins at any of the places downtown and grab a shuttle up to Hanauma Bay. The snorkeling here is amazing because its in a bay and the turtles are really tame (do not touch them though!). Because it’s a bay, the water is really calm so the water is super clear. Because its the best spot on the island to snorkel, you’ll need to purchase and reserve your spot ahead of time.
Shangri La – If you’re feeling like taking in the Arts, there’s an incredible collection of Islamic art assembled by Doris Duke on display in her beautiful Oahu mansion. You need to book tickets in advance so look into it before you even arrive on island. Right off in front of the house is a natural swimming pool and a nice surf break that she enjoyed with her boyfriend, the great Duke Kahanamoku, olympic swimmer and founder of modern surfing.
Mānoa Falls hike – drive up and park in the residential neighborhood near the trailhead and hike in to the falls. It’s a short hike but it can be muddy so bring sneakers that you can wash later. The waterfall is an oasis in the middle of the jungle. If you have swimming trunks on, you can go swimming to. If the jungle tea house looks familiar, it was used as set in the TV series, Lost.
The Infamous Day – If you’re into history, the exhibit on the events that lead up to World War Two at Pearl Harbor are quite well done. It shows perspectives from both the US and Japanese side and has the draft of FDR’s infamy speech. While you’re there, you might as well take a launch out to the wreck of the Arizona where oil is still bubbling up to the surface from the sunken ship.
Diving
A whole post could be written about diving spots around the island. If you’re open water certified, I highly recommend heading out with a guide to Spitting Caves & China Wall, Shark’s Cove, and The Sea Tiger Wreck. If you’re a beginner, Koko Crater is a good one. Island Diver is a good outfit, Tyler worked with them one summer.
China Wall
Surfing
If you already know how to surf, you know where to go get more information about the surf spots. If you don’t, definitely take a surfing lesson. The best place to learn is off of Waikiki Beach, the waves are consistent and mellow enough to get you started on a long board.
If you’re into Stand Up Paddleboards, you can rent them and try the calm waters off of Ala Moana.
Food
Leonard’s at dawn
After a morning swim or surf, be sure to stop by Leonards for their Masalas. If you’ve been on the water all day and are ravenous, the Loco Moco or Beef Cutlet with Gravy plate at the Rainbow Drive-In will set you right again.
If you find yourself on the North Shore, be sure to stop by a Shrimp Truck and grab a plate of garlic shrimp. I always hit the Shrimp Shack.
Shave Ice – do not leave the island w/o trying it. If you’re in the North Shore, Matsumoto is the place.
KCC Farmer’s Market on Sundays to try out local food and also a good place to pick up gifts to bring home. Come hungry.
La Mer – if you’re looking for a fancy meal (and are willing to drop some major cash) La Mer at the Halekulani is the place to go. Ask for a table overlooking the ocean at sunset.
In the late 80’s, while in university, my girlfriend and I took a backpacker trip to Central America. This was not a well-planned trip. We took an old copy of The People’s Guide to Mexico, a hammock, and a day pack to hold a few spare changes of clothes. Our plan was to travel clockwise from Mexico City, the Yucatan, Belize, Guatemala, and then back North.
We traveled on the cheap. Flying into Mexico City on a rainy Christmas Eve we caught an overnight bus down to the Yucatan peninsula on Christmas Day. I still remember the bus rocking back and forth violently trying to sleep as we careened down the mountains towards the coast. There was a plastic Jesus on the dashboard blinking from a series of LEDs along his arms and legs. I awoke early in the morning when the driver slammed on the brakes to roll slowly past the scene of a fatal car accident. A bus and a car had collided head on and there were bodies being dragged out on the shoulder – the fog was heavy, the vision was dreamlike.
Later, we hit the coast and got off somewhere to put our feet into the warm waters of the Gulf of Mexico. After so much rain, Northern California rain, Los Angeles rain, Mexico City rain, it was good to finally get some sun. We hit the tropics and shed raincoats and jeans for t-shirts, shorts, and huaraches.We bopped down the Eastern edge of the peninsula and then crossed over into Belize. We wanted to avoid the tourist traps so we stayed away from the beaches and headed inland towards the border with Guatemala.
Once in Guatemala, we traveled by colorfully painted secondhand school buses. These “chicken buses” (called such because they usually carried local farmers along with their livestock) were by far the cheapest (and most fun) way to get around. The buses traveled through the smaller towns, so there were more buses and routes removing the need to stick to any schedule or plan.
Bus in Guatemala
The roads were mostly dirt and I would spend many hours looking out the window at the passing landscape. Sometimes I could see the shadow of the kids riding up on top, some would be standing, arms outstretched, as if surfing. Occasionally the conductor would lean out the door and shout to those on the roof to watch their head, everyone would duck as we drove slowly under a tree branch.
Tikal was a must see. This ancient Mayan ruin is truly not to be missed. The photo in the header is from a day spent wandering the ruins with a guide who snuck off to spend a day with us, clambering up and down the pyramids, showing us secret passages, and memorably getting high and playing chess with us while we sat on top of on our very own 2,000 year old Mayan pyramid. It was only late in the day that we discovered that our friend was actually playing hooky. A shout from someone who clearly was his supervisor put a quick end to our fun and we were back on our own.
Following Tikal, we headed West a bit and got into a conversation with some British travelers who told us we absolutely had to visit Finka de Mike (Mike’s Ranch) near the town of Poptun. The bus we were on would take us there and arrive in the evening.
Arriving at Poptun, it was too late to ask the only business, a small restaurant, for directions to the ranch. It was closed. One of the farmers that got off the bus with us was kind enough to show us the way. Our limited Spanish figured out that he would take us to the ranch and that we only needed to follow him. We began to walk down a narrow path into the woods.
It was pitch black. There wasn’t any moon and it was overcast so the stars weren’t much of a help either. Our guide was walking at a brisk pace and we were getting deeper and deeper into the woods. Both Kathi and I started to hang back a bit and began to look for signs of an ambush or other foul play up ahead. I fingered a pocket knife in my pocket.
We must have walked a good couple of miles and I think it was close to 9pm. Just as we were beginning to get really concerned, the farmer turned to us and gestured to a set of lights on the other side of a field. “A que” he says pointing, “Finca de Mike” and before I could dig something out of my pack to thank him, he was gone. Back the way we came. He just walked four miles out of his way.
Kathi and I walked across the field and into what seemed like the main house. Candlelight lit the room dimly. After traveling native for a couple of weeks, surrounded by Spanish, it seemed strange to creek open a door and hear English conversation. We asked if there was someone to check in with and were told by the other guests that the Ranch was run on an honor system. There was a spiral bound notebook on the kitchen counter and guests would just write in what to took from the pantry or refrigerator and the total number of nights they stayed. This would all get totaled up by the owner upon departure.
It was very comfortable there. When we met Mike and Carol, the owners, we learned Finca de Mike covered 400 acres and we learned their story. Back in California they had the dream of owning a ranch but were unable to afford one. They sold everything they had and traveled south until they came to Guatemala in the late 60’s and bought the land for almost nothing.
Since then, they had turned the ranch into a self-sustaining farm. All the vegetables and meat were raised on site and all the guests worked together to cook the evening meal. Mike said that friends would often come down to visit and bring their friends. Before long, Finca de Mike became a regular stop for not only for friends of friends but soon, as word got around, new guests too. Mike devised the spiral notebook system as a way to defray some of their costs.
Two macaws flew freely around the ranch, heading off each morning and returning right around sunset, in time to hang out with everyone as we drank beer on the porch of the ranch’s beautiful, handmade pine wood house. The ranch was surrounded by curiously shaped hills until it dawned on me during that sunset that these were not hills at all but Mayan pyramids that had yet to be uncovered, overgrown with jungle to look like hills. We were staying on the grounds of an ancient Mayan city.
On the third or forth day I grew restless. People had spoken about a cave several hours walk to the East. As I asked around for others that might join me, someone suggested the “Cave Trip” advertised in the kitchen. I signed up Kathi and I on a simple sign-up sheet taped to the refridgerator. It said to show up by the main house at 6am to get ready.
The next morning I walked up to see a convoy of pack horses getting saddled up with gear. I asked why so much gear was necessary and was told we were going to visit a new cave, one that had never been explored. But this one was two days ride away. Even better!
The only New Mexican I know
There were six or eight of us on the trip, including Mike and a guide to cut thru the jungle with a machete. We were traveling along a trail cut by the rubber farmers and we often passed trees with the telltale cross-hatching on them.
The first evening we spent in a shack for farmers that would hike to remote fields in the mountains and stay for several days as they farmed their crops. There was some dried corn available which our guide used to make fresh tortillas from scratch with nothing more than the top of an oil drum as a pan. In the cold, morning mist, I still remember these corn tortillas as the best I have ever tasted.
We explored several caves including one, its floor covered with pottery shards, that was later featured in National Geographic (which I now learn was Naj Tunich, a potential UNESCO World Heritage site). We arrived even before the explorers. I remember learning from Mike how to co-exist with the jungle. It was not the dark, scary place my urban mind was telling me it was. The Guatemalan people were amazing. The kind man who walked four miles out of his way to show us to the ranch, the guide at Tikal who played chess with us. Everyone we met had an inner light of goodness.
Guatemala was amazing and Finca de Mike was a highlight. Here was someone who was carving out life on his own terms and being the change he wanted to see.
Contrast this with the shock I felt when I read two years later in a Berkeley cafe that Mike DeVine, the owner of the ranch, was found brutally murdered – his head nearly severed clean. Suspicions about the motive were many including the story that he stumbled across a unit of the Guatemalan Army loading drugs for a shipment up North and the CIA-backed goons that were in on it murdered Mike to protect their business.
The ripples continued. Military aid by the US to Guatemala was cut off as a result of Mike’s murder and only recently, more than 20 years later, have relations improved. The motive of the murder is still shrouded but clues are starting to crop up, including a cryptic declassified government document.
Finca de Mike is still there. Known as Finca Ixobel, you can visit today and Carol Ann DeVine will be there to greet you where the memory of Mike lives on. I have never been back but would love to hear how things are today and if the region has recovered from this terrible tragedy.
