15 years ago a friend asked me for tips on what to do in Tokyo. I’ve updated the post a few times with new information but never shared anything about where to stay and what to eat so here’s text lifted from a long message to another friend.

Where to Stay

Old Tokyo

I like Yanaka in eastern Tokyo. This area was not bombed during the war so many of the old buildings and temples remain. I used to live there and enjoyed having good access to downtown but still retreat to a neighborhood when you want to decompress. For visitors, it’s a more authentic Japanese experience than the hustle, bustle and glitz of Ginza or Shibuya. 

I recently went back to visit and now it’s been rediscovered as a nostalgic neighborhood and has transformed a bit like Williamsburg in New York. 

There’s a family-run inn in the neighborhood that’s still there. I’ve never stayed there but imagine it’s a bit like a backpacking experience. You’ll definitely meet other travelers that might be fun to hang out if you’re traveling solo.

http://www.sawanoya.com/eigo.html

Modern Tokyo

When I worked at SmartNews and traveled to Tokyo every couple of months, I would stay at the Shibuya Dormy Inn. The rooms are tiny but they have a large shared bath & sauna and the breakfast buffet is a good deal. Location-wise you’ll be a 15-minute walk from Shibuya station so if you go out late, it’s a cheap cab ride home. Stay here if you want to be in the thick of it. Pro-tip, ask for a room away from the train tracks which run right next to the hotel. 

https://dormy-hotels.com/dormyinn/hotels/shibuya

Where to eat

Tokyo is like NYC in that there is anything you want and the baseline quality isn’t bad. If you know what you want and plan ahead, you will have access to some truly unique dining experiences. Off the top of my head, here are some places to try.

Minatoya –  cheap sushi-don under the tracks. The whole neighborhood was where the black market was after the war and still is a neighborhood full of niche shops selling their wares at a discount. After visiting the rabbit warren of shops, be sure to stop by here for your requisite $8 lunch.

Bayside Sakura Olion-sushi – if you’re looking for a different take on sushi, this place pairs olive oils and salts with their fish to serve a somewhat hybrid meal. The chef trained in Southern Europe (Spain I think) so came to appreciate the Mediterranean way of eating and fused that with traditional Japanese sushi. High end eating but well worth it. 

Tonki – Fried pork cutlet is not for everyone but if you want to try the best Tonkatsu in the world, this is the spot. The place is immaculate and they run people through there like it’s a factory. You’ll get to sit at the counter and watch the open kitchen work in quiet efficiency. The rice is fluffy, the sliced cabbage is sweet and the roast pork done to perfection. Truly a temple to the pork cutlet. 

Enoki – Tiny Japanese bar that seats 6 in the shadow of the skyscrapers of Shibuya. I have been going here since the 80s (Enoki was in my post 15 years ago) so Chizuru, the proprietor has know me since I was in my twenties. It’s super hard to get in so if you want to go, call a day or two ahead. 

Tokyo is a city that gives more than it takes. If you go in with an unstructured schedule with only one or two things to do each day and leave yourself plenty of time to poke around surrounding neighborhoods and open yourself to sidebar explorations, you will be amazed at what you’ll find. 

Be observant, marvel at the intricate designs on the manhole covers, see a line of folks at a sweet treat shop? Queue up and try it out. Ask questions, have conversations, connect with humanity and celebrate what brings us together. 

I was just back there last month to visit my parents to celebrate my dad’s 90th. While I spent most of my time with my parents, I did manage a couple of focused days out and caught a whiff of that Tokyo magic. Here’s what I did. 

One Day in Tokyo